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Parameters
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Descriptions
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Water Testing Kits
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| pH |
pH (power of Hidrogen) is measurement unit to determine aquarium water acidity/alkalinity. pH value starts from 0 to 14.
pH < 7 called acid, pH > 7 called base/alkaline, pH = 7 called neutral
pH is valued by logarithm scale, for example : pH=6 means 10x more acid than pH=7 ; pH=5 means 100x more acid than pH=7
Some freshwater fishes like pH < 7 (s.a tetras, discus, angelfish). Certain freshwater fish thrive at a pH above 7.0. Live-bearers and goldfish require a pH of 7.5. African cichlids, marine fish and invertebrates require a pH between 8.2 and 8.4.
If you keep various fishes in planted aquarium, you'll need to stabilize the pH level at 7 - the safest pH for almost all kind of fishes.
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How to check your aquarium pH ?:
• This pH Test Kit is the classical way to test your aquarium pH. The kit contains a dropper bottle /tube for accurate dispensing of test solutions, easy-to-read instructions and color chart.
• Electronic pH monitor can check your pH on a continuous basis or off-on. Easy to use and accurate to 1 one-hundredth of a pH unit.
• It is an easy to use pH meter , features +- 0.2 Accuracy, one-point calibration and a long battery life (hours of continuous use). Perfect for freshwater, saltwater and reef systems.
• pH Alert™ is a unique color device designed to be placed in the aquarium or filter and monitor pH continuously.
A sensor changes color reversibly to alert you shifts to in pH levels between 5.8 and 8.2. No tests, no strips, just constant readings. For Freshwater Only.
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Ammonia (NH3)
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Ammonia (NH3) is the number one killer of tropical fish, and is continuously produced by the aquarium from fish wastes, decomposin. Once Ammonia is detected, appropriate steps should be Taken to Remove it.
As a very dangerous toxin, it can damage fish gills if it's level reaches 0.02 mg/liter (ppm) and will be fatal for your fishes at 0.5 mg/liter (ppm).
Aquarium Ammonia level should be zero at all times. It's level is highly influenced by pH and temperature. Ammonia level will increase along with increasing pH and or temperature. Just check out the Ammonia-pH-Temperature relationship on the next tab for better understanding. |
Ammonia Alert™ is an innovative color device for continuously detecting and monitoring toxic free ammonia. No test kits, chemicals, or procedures are needed.
The color changing sensor lets you know when free ammonia levels are dangerously high! Four levels of ammonia detection, safe, alert, alarm, and toxic, keeps you aware of your tank's current ammonia content. These water testing kits will accurately read ammonia levels even if an ammonia remover is in use.

Ammonia Test Kit contains a dropper bottle /tube for accurate dispensing of test solutions, easy-to-read instructions and color chart. Reads from 0 to 8 ppm.
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| Nitrite (NO2) |
Nitrite (NO2-) is produced in the aquarium by the biological filter. Beneficial bacteria (nitrifying bacteria) in the biological filter convert toxic ammonia into nitrite (also toxic, although the toxin level is lower than ammonia). The biological filter then converts nitrite into nitrate (NO3-).
Nitrite is also very dangerous, testing for the presence of toxic nitrite is essential, so that once detected, steps can be taken to remove it. Otherwise, nitrite in the aquarium will prevent fish from carrying on normal respiration, stress fish, suppressing their immune system and, thereby, increase the likelihood of disease and subsequent fish loss.
Nitrite level should be kept zero at all times. Maximum tolerance : < 0.1 mg/liter (ppm). Check your biological filter function and capacity.
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Nitrite Test Kit contains a dropper bottle /tube for accurate dispensing of test solutions, easy-to-read instructions and color chart. This kit tests for harmful nitrite and measures levels from 0 to 5.0 ppm.
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| Nitrate (NO3) |
Nitrate is harmles for fish at certain level. Safe level = below 40 mg/liter (ppm).
A high nitrate (NO3-) level indicates a build-up of fish waste and organic compounds, resulting in poor water quality and contributing to the likelihood of fish disease. Excessive nitrate provides a nitrogen source that can stimulate algal blooms & also dangerous for baby fish & shrimp.
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Nitrate Test Kit contains a dropper bottle /tube for accurate dispensing of test solutions, easy-to-read instructions and color chart. This kit tests nitrate levels from 0 to 160 ppm.
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| General Hardness (GH) |
General Hardness (GH) is determined by calcium & magnesium dissolved in the aquarium water. Usually GH is measured in German degrees (°dGH).
1°dGH = 5.5 mmol/liter alkaline earth (Ca & Mg) ions.
General Hardness (GH) category : 0-3 °dGH = very soft ; 4-8 °dGH = soft ; 9-12 °dGH = normal ; 13-18 °dGH = hard.
Total hardness is only becomes important when breeding fish from extremely soft water.
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Use Hardness (GH & KH) Test Kit.
GH can be reduced by planting water plants (egeria densa)
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| Carbonate Hardness (KH) |
Carbonate hardness (KH -also known as alkalinity) is the measure of carbonate (CO32-) and bicarbonate (HCO3-) ion concentrations dissolved in water. These minerals are present in municipal, well, and bottled spring water. The level of carbonate hardness in tap and bottled water depends on the source of the water and the treatment processes it has undergone.
Carbonate hardness (KH) is a pH buffer, it can prevent pH drastic reduction (pH shock) that can kill fish instantly & helps stabilize pH in the aquarium. An aquarium with a low KH level (50 ppm or less) will tend to be acidic. Aquariums with very low KH are subject to rapid pH shifts!, if not monitored carefully. Water with a high KH level (= 200 ppm) usually has a high pH.
Carbonate Hardness (KH) is usually measured in German degrees (°dKH).
1°dKH = 17.9 mg/liter (ppm) CaCO3.
Carbonate Hardness (KH) category : 0-3 °dKH = soft ; 4-8 °dKH = moderate ; >8 °dKH = hard.
Check out the triangle relationship between KH, pH and CO2 level on the next tab.
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Use Hardness (GH & KH) Test Kit.
KH can be reduced by using Reverse Osmosis (RO) Filter, mixed the water with aquadest/ distilled water and planting water plants (egeria densa).
KH can be increased by adding Sodium bicarbonate or Calcium Carbonates (CaCO3) into your aquarium water.
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| Oxygen (O2) |
Oxygen level depends on several factors s.a : temperature, aquarium water flow & surface movement, filter cleanliness. Normal oxygen level = 5-8 mg/liter |
Use Oxygen Test Kit . Best checking time : in the morning (O2 level at the lowest point).
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| Carbon Dioxide (CO2) |
CO2 is not toxin for fish at certain level (under 40 mg/liter). It's very important especially for planted tank due to several reasons :
- Water quality guard. CO2 can reduce pH. If pH low enough, ammonia (NH3) will be oxidized by water becoming ammonium (NH4) which is harmless for aquarium life.
- Water plants photosynthesis. CO2 + proper lighting creates good photosynthesis. As result, no excess nutrition for algae blooms and plants generates oxygen for life.
Check out the triangle relationship between CO2-pH-KH on the next tab.
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How are the CO2 levels in your planted tank ?
You'll know exactly what's going on in your tank with the CO2 Indicator. This device provides an accurate and continuous reading of the CO2 level in your water so you can make sure you're providing the optimum amount for excellent growth and health.
It provides real-time reading with easy to compare color chart right on the device. Suction-cups easily anywhere within your aquarium. Stay on top of things in your tank with the helpful CO2 Indicator.
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| Phosphate (PO4) |
Water plants needs phosphate for photosynthesis, but high phosphate can create algae blooms. It should be checked regularly (safe level = under 1 mg/litre). To keep phosphate at safe level :
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Use Phosphate Test Kit.
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| Iron (Fe) |
Iron is very important nutrition for water plants to create chlorophyl. Lack of iron can yellowing leaves. Too much iron can make leaves sick. Safe iron level = around 0.1 mg/litre.
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Use Iron Test Kit.
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| Copper (Cu) |
Copper is very dangerous for aquatic life. It's level should be zero at all times, but it is often used to treat many parasitic infections on fresh and saltwater fish.
• To be effective, the copper concentration in the aquarium must be maintained at the therapeutic level for several weeks. Frequent testing is required to monitor the copper level in the aquarium. Some fish species are very sensitive to copper treatments. Therefore, follow the copper treatment manufacturer's directions carefully.
• Copper should not be used or evident in aquariums with invertebrates, including snails, shrimp, crayfish and corals, as well as in freshwater aquariums or ponds with plants.
• Tap water may contain copper leached from pipes and, ultimately, it can accumulate in the aquarium.
Use active carbon (chemical filter) to remove copper and replace part of your aquarium water.
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Use Copper Test Kit.
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| Chlorine |
Tap water usually contains chlorine at the safe level for human, but not for aquatic life. Although chlorine is very dangerous, it's easy to neutralize by using anti-chlorine products or by evaporating toxic dissolved chlorine gas (Cl2) with strong aeration.
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Use Chlorine & Chloramine Test Kit.
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| Chloramine |
Most water systems use chloramine (chlorine + ammonia mixture to reduce chlorine gas evaporation) to destroy harmful bacteria and organisms in drinking water. These chemicals while not harmful to humans are deadly to fish. Fish will instantly die.
Avoid using this source of water or use dechlorinators that will remove both chlorine and chloramines from municipal water supplies.
Important Note :
All dechlorinators operate through a chemical process known as reduction. In this process, toxic dissolved chlorine gas (Cl2) is converted into non-toxic chloride ions (Cl-). The reduction process also breaks the bonds between chlorine and nitrogen atoms in the chloramine molecule (NH2Cl), freeing the chlorine atoms and replacing them with hydrogen (H) to create ammonia (NH3).
Typically, dechlorinators STOP there, leaving an aquarium full of toxic ammonia!
So, choose dechlorinator that ALSO contains a binder which renders ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate non-toxic (taking the necessary next step to detoxify the ammonia produced in the reduction process).
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Use Chlorine & Chloramine Test Kit.
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| Temperature |
Keeping stable & ideal temperature makes healthy aquatic life. For planted tanks /aquascaping, ideal temperature is 24-26 C. |
Use electronic
thermometer to measure aquarium
temperature.
Aquarium Chillers
will automatically reduce water
temperature in warm summer months, keeping your aquatic friends
comfortable.
If you set
the Aquarium
Heater in certain degree, it will
automatically keep the water temperatures stable when outside temperatures drop.
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